The 700 year old Olive Tree

and old lady in baggy pants


In the southwest corner of Sicily, you will find 3 amazing places, producing 3 amazing products.

1st Stop

Castelvetrano, Sicily

Castelvetrano, home of Gianfranco Becchina's Olio Verde, the best olive oil I've ever had. I spent mid-morning to mid-afternoon there with the group I was touring with.

Gabriella Becchina was our host and guide, taking us for a walk through the olive trees, explaining the life of a olive tree. The photo above is , unfortunately, of me standing in front of the 700 year old olive tree.Gabriella explained the tree appeared to be dead for years, but due to its age, they refused to remove it. Good thing, because last year the magnificent old tree sent out some green shoots, followed by leaves. It even had a few olives this harvest season! I think that tree has a safe haven from now until forever.

This family has owned the land and the trees for several generations. Gabriella lived in New York on September 11, 2001. As soon as airlines were back in business, she returned to the place she thought of as home, her Grandmother's home. Today, that house is a beautiful Bed and Breakfast surrounded by an unbelievable water garden, olive groves and a business that has had amazing growth since Gabriella has taken over.

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2nd Stop:

Trapani, Sicily


Sea salt is sooooooo much better than Morton's! That little girl with her umbrella is cute, I used her salt for years. But once you try real sea salt, that little girl is worthless!


We arrived in Trapani knowing that we would see ancient windmills that are used to pump water in and out of the salt beds, and of course, it is right on the Mediterranean. The salt beds are a series of sectioned off pools, varying in depth. Sea water is pumped into the first one, water evaporates to a certain level then the water is pumped to pool number 2 which is more shallow than the first. There it is allowed to evaporate again, leaving water that is saltier and becomes even saltier with each pool. Finally, after many pools and many days, it is extremely concentrated. The salt is harvested by hand, gently removing the crystals to the drying mounds, big piles of salt on the beach. There it sits, looking like pyramids along the sea, drying for however long it takes. Sea Salt from different locations around the Mediterranean can be identified by its color, its type and size of grain, etc.


Judy Witts Francini's blog, "Over a Tuscan Stove", has an article about salt in which she says "Sicily has produced salt since the Phoenicians occupied the territory more than 2,000 years ago. Many forget it was the world's foremost preservative in pre-refrigerated times. Meats and herbs were chopped with fine sea salt to absorb moisture and keep them from rot. Salted pork was a staple for sailors.
I toured salt works in Trapani. The refinement process intrigued me. Salt water is shifted from pool-to-pool using an Archimedes screw pump (he's believed to have invented the device in ancient Siracusa, where he lived).
The process, called solar evaporation, sees brine gradually moved from one pond to another, with each pool containing a higher level of salinity. Wind and heat then help the water to evaporate, leaving salt crystals floating on the top.
That top layer, called fior di sale, is lower in sodium than table salt and rich in magnesium, potassium, fluorine, and is scraped off first. The rest is transferred to shore and left to dry in pyramid-style structures with tile rooftops. Farmers let the sun and wind slowly do their corroding work and harvest the crystals twice a year."

So, if you haven't tried sea salt yet, please do yourself a favor...give it a try.

And yes, I am definitely partial to Trapani Sea Salt.

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Last stop:

Marsala, Sicily

Those of you who know me, know I am very involved with my daughter's and son-in-law's vineyard and winery, Somerset Ridge. I was there the day we planted the first vines, April 1, 1998. I have cooked every harvest season for the hungry pickers; I learned to prune the vines, I have labeled thousands of bottles, the first few years by hand! Today, I have reached the level of employment known as semi-retired. I'm not up to winter pruning, I don't like the cold. We now have a semi automated bottling line, and Somerset has more employees, so I'm not needed on the line. Now days, I'm the chef, period. But my interest in the vines, the wine, the tasting room has not retired, nor has my need to know more about wine. When I found out we would be touring the Florio Marsala Winery in Marsala, Sicily, I was very pleased. The procedure for making Marsala wine is similar to Somerset Ridge's procedure for making Port. Florio receives wine from another winery then turns it into Marsala over years of aging after the cognac has been added. I actually saw a barrel of Marsala that was stored in the cellar that was dated 1941, the year I was born. Their museum was facinating, full of bottles from the early 1900s. They were hidden during WWI and WWII so all those invading countries wouldn't either ship it home or drink it on the spot.

Florio prepared a wonderful tasting of Marsala Wines and Sicilian food for us, and, we ate and drank it all. After all, that was our mission!

Winter Pastimes

Beautiful Lake Como, Italy

Now that it is so bitterly cold here in Kansas City, everyone is staying inside when possible. Luckily, the new season on television is finally underway. Jack is Back! It looks like another nail-biting season for "24"! My other favorites are starting this week. I am looking forward to "The Closer", I have enjoyed the last 2 seasons, so I expect to enjoy this one as well. Once again, Brenda will be eating lots of chocolate when things get stressful! You gotta love her!


The flag of Scotland

Another pastime that seems to occupy my time during the winter months is Genealogy. I was born in Columbia, Missouri, and lived there until I was 10. Family has always been very important to me. I grew up surrounded by Grandparents, Aunts and Uncles, Cousins by the dozens. I suppose that has given me my fascination with genealogy. I must admit, I've had a few shocks along the way! It is amazing what can turn up. My biggest surprise was finding out I am NOT 100% Scot/American. I thought it was amazing that all 4 of my grandparents were of Scottish descent, actually from the same area in Northeast Scotland called Aberdeenshire. As a chef, I never felt very Scottish....their food has a history of being very boring! One day I was listening to a cassette tape recorded of an interview my Grandfather gave to the local newspaper in Columbia.

Columbia is a very southern city in attitude, traditions, food and drink. That particular day Granddad was enjoying a very Southern drink, a Mint Julep. For those of you unfamilar with the traditional drink of the Kentucky Derby, it is pretty much Kentucky Bourbon with a little mint, sugar and crushed ice. A couple of those and your outlook on life begins to look brighter! Anyway, it was obvious that Granddad was having one, as the interview went on he developed a very southern accent! It wasn't as bad as Paula Deen's, but close!


When the interviewer asked about his family history, he told how his father's family came from Scotland, settled in Kentucky, and finally on to Boone County, Missouri. Then a moment I will never forget......my Grandad said "My Mother's folks came from Lake Como in Northern Italy."


Finally I knew who I was! I was Italian! My Grandfather was 50% Italian, my Dad was 25% Italian, making me 12.5% Italian! That's enough to cover my heart and brain, right? But then it dawned on me I needed to include my Mom's genes (she was an "Ogg", one of the oldest known names in Scotland, like from the Stone Age!) and that brought it down to around 5 or 6%Italian....but that's enough for my heart! I was thrilled.


I had been introduced to genealogy by my Aunt Lou, Mom's sister. When she died, I inherited all of her files, books, photos, etc. It is such a treasure! Where she had to travel to find information, I simply have to sit in front of the computer. I joined Ancestry.com, bought Family Tree software, and got a library card from the Mid-Continent Public Library's Genealogy branch and I can search the world from home! I have data taking me back to Scotland, 1330, when Adam Johnston was born. He only lived 16 years, but fortunately for me, he had a son, Stephen, before he died.


As for the Italian side of the family, the surname is Este. I've been to Lake Como, an absolutely beautiful place, but did not discover any long lost relatives. Apparently my Este ancestor left Italy in the early 1800s and moved to....you guessed it....Scotland! I've come to a dead end, and am not sure I am going to continue the search....I'm happy being the little 5% Italian chef! To celebrate my Italian heritage I am sending this recipe for Lemoncello, a drink I don't imagine my Granddad ever tasted, but I bet if he had, he would have developed an Italian accent!

Lemoncello

The flag of Italy

the zest of 6 lemons

750 ml bottle of inexpensive vodka

3 cups water

1 1/2 cups sugar

Place the lemon zest in a jar large enough to hold the 750 ml of vodka. Add the vodka, tighten lid well, and shake vigorously.

Set aside for 10 days, shaking periodically.

On the 10th day, make a simple syrup by bringing 3 cups of water and 1 1/2 cups sugar to a boil.

Strain zest from vodka and pour syrup over the zest.

After 30 minutes, strain the zest from the simple syrup, discard the zest.

Mix the syrup with the vodka and pour into jars with lids.

Keep in the freezer, don't worry about it freezing, it just turns into slush!

Lemoncello must be served ICY COLD!

Enjoy!Y

And now, for a non-alcohol recipe.....Missouri has a history of being covered with Black Walnut trees. Growing up we had Black Walnut Fudge and Divinity with Black Walnuts every Christmas. My Grandmother Johnston made wonderful candies every year. But I love her Black Walnut Cake most of all!

Missouri Black Walnut Cake
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
7 large eggs
1/4 tablespoon cream of tartar
1/2 cup light corn syrup
1/2 cup light molasses
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Black walnuts, halved
CREAM FROSTING
1 egg white
1 cup heavy cream
3/4 cup powdered sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup chopped black walnuts

1. Separate eggs and save one egg white for the frosting.
2. CAKE: Sift flour with salt, baking powder, cinnamon, nutmeg, and allspice (substitute mace for allspice if preferred).
3. Beat 6 egg whites with cream of tartar at high speed until light and fluffy. Gradually add corn syrup; continue beating until stiff peaks form. DO NOT under beat.
4. Beat 7 egg yolks with molasses and vanilla at high speed until thick. Blend in dry ingredients. Fold this mixture into egg whites, using a rubber spatula to fold in gently but completely.
5. Pour into ungreased 10-inch tube pan.
6. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven for 40-50 minutes or until cake springs back when lightly touched. Invert pan immediately and cool completely before removing from the pan. Frost with cream frosting and decorate with walnut halves.
7. CREAM FROSTING: Beat 1 egg white until stiff. Beat 1 cup heavy cream until thick. Add 3/4 cup sifted powdered sugar, 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, and 1/4 teaspoon salt to the cream. Fold gently into the egg white along with 3/4 cup coarsely chopped walnuts.
8. Frost cake as is or cut into 3 layers (using string or dental floss) if preferred and frost each layer as you stack.